Thread: Why won't my silicone reccess play unresponsive?!

OK, I've been getting this alot from fellow modders. Here's the answer!

Clean out the bearing/Spacer seat! 90% PLUS of the time your newly sliconed yo-yo responds it's simply because you have residue on the yo-yo. If there is even a tiny bit of silicone in the seat, you're going to have response!

If after checking this, and you're yo-yo still responds, check your silicone job....Do you have too much sili in the reccess? Most likely, yes!

If course, a clean bearing is almost a must as well, but, I'm assuming you already knew this.

Hope this helps!

ModFather

A clean bearing or a very well broken in bearing is probably the most important part of an unresponsive yoyo. I can play a FHZ with stock stickers in it with a clean bearing and it will be unresponsive. The rest is true as well.

I see you're taking me a bit more seriously now.....

I'm gonna have to try the FHZ with stock stickers. Which stickers you using? Some come with Sili-stickers. I've tried the Takeshi FHZ, and wasn't impressed. SOMETIMES a cleaned bearing works good in it, other times not.

I never said you were a bad guy or a bad modder or anything of the sort. I just didn't agree with a lot of things you said. Thats all. If you give good advice then I'll agree with it.

Touche.

OK then....I'd like your honest opinion on my work.

The green monkey looked great. I don't remember any others. I need to see pics again.

They're in my album!

Well do you have a link to your ablum?

Album



That's one of my favorites.

I can make you one...wanna trade something?

What is your method for making both of them even?

I always have questions like this that I just can't quite get my head around.

Luchador hand zero? o.O

Looking good.

My method is simple...measure twice, cut once! LOL! I set the compound to the angle I want, and take exactly the same amount off either side. Using a test indicator in the tailstock is also a good way to go to make sure everything matches. I've even used a gram scale instead of the test indicator when I KNOW my math and angles are right...just to make sure.

What method do you use to do the same work?

Originally Posted by ModFather

Clean out the bearing/Spacer seat! 90% PLUS of the time your newly sliconed yo-yo responds it's simply because you have residue on the yo-yo. If there is even a tiny bit of silicone in the seat, you're going to have response!

If after checking this, and you're yo-yo still responds, check your silicone job....Do you have too much sili in the reccess? Most likely, yes!

If course, a clean bearing is almost a must as well, but, I'm assuming you already knew this.

Hope this helps!

ModFather

i agree with what your saying... i just feel i need to add a little bit.

fresh silicone is never very unresponsive.. its got to be played with for a few hours for the initial grip to wear off... after that its generally good... if your silicone is still transparent or shiny "not translucent" its still gonna be really grippy.. once it becomes translucent/duller thats when its been relatively broken in... just thought this little addition would help..

your mods look wonderful by the way very, you seem to know what your doing... love that white fhz you modded! i gotta add to your rep for the mods and the good info man!

-Derek

A CNC machine how else would you get them even? haha.. No but that one USA mini lathe offers computer control. Stepper motored which is priced well. Something like 1500 but you install the software on your PC and it sends it to the control box via serial.

Old fashioned way is to make a Follower out of wood, or something hard. But you must put both halfs on the set the same way before you begin. Not hard since most Yos halfs are perfect copies of each anyway. Ive done it freehand on Lyns but instead I just cut one half until I liked it. Then copied it with Calipers or a cardboard cutout of it.

Originally Posted by BuzzJr

A CNC machine how else would you get them even? haha.. No but that one USA mini lathe offers computer control. Stepper motored which is priced well. Something like 1500 but you install the software on your PC and it sends it to the control box via serial.

You have a link to this setup?

Originally Posted by Darklight

i agree with what your saying... i just feel i need to add a little bit.

fresh silicone is never very unresponsive.. its got to be played with for a few hours for the initial grip to wear off... after that its generally good... if your silicone is still transparent or shiny "not translucent" its still gonna be really grippy.. once it becomes translucent/duller thats when its been relatively broken in... just thought this little addition would help..

your mods look wonderful by the way very, you seem to know what your doing... love that white fhz you modded! i gotta add to your rep for the mods and the good info man!

-Derek

Thanks Derek....I really appreciate it.

I give up. You aren't even worth trying to help anymore. If you remember thats what started this whole thing. You asked for help. I gave it. The end.

Ith, You can push my chair around anytime. haha

Originally Posted by ModFather

You have a link to this setup?

Yes, One second.. http://www.sherline.com/8400pg.htm
Ive talked to them before and you can get it without a cpu.
Sherline lathe systems. The small lathe looks almost like my tiny lathe. Mine also has a bunch of addons but more expensive then sher's?

Sherlinedirect.com is there main/home. Have a bunch of options..

Thanks Buzz!